Tuesday, April 28, 2009

The Signs that I am Back in Canada

After a long drive to the airport leaving at 5 am - most of the time in a Gravol induced haze (I get car sick), one wrong turn and a drop off at the wrong gate with a struggle through what must be the most crowded airport on a Saturday at 9 am. We were finally in the line to get through security to go home. Wearing comfy sweats that we will need to burn on landing and armed with empty water bottles to drink when through security, a good book and a fresh pen for catching up on 6 days of my written journal we are truly ready to leave this lovely place behind.

Here are some things that occured to me as we were and after we had landed in Toronto.
  • Airplane annoucements telling us that we would have to sprint to our connections due to the lateness of our arrival were in English first and then French. As opposed to the announcements through the flight that the entertainment system was not working that necessitated a 30 minute shut down occuring first in French and then in English (three times before they just gave up and told us to read a book).
  • The only person confused about where to go next was a young lady who spoke only French and could find no bilingual person at the gate to explain where to run to at breakneck speed for her connection to MooseJaw (poor girl)
  • There were 22 customs agents ready to receive JUST our flight as opposed to the ONE agent that checked the passports of 500 people getting on 3 different flights in Paris (that is a staffing model, boy)
  • The uniforms of the Airport staff did not have the flair that Hermes Scarfs and Dior jackets had in Paris. We had entered frumpville and I saw the shoes to prove it.
  • Tim Hortons waiting for me as soon as I passed through the metal detector
  • Fat people - sorry, guys - we have a problem. I need to google the French Paradox - I ate therefore I was in France and I lost 8 lbs - WTF?
  • lanes wide enough to fit my SUV and a bit of weaving when the exaustion poked through

I am glad to be home even if I had to drive three hours after getting off the plane 24 hours from when I got up sometime in the distant past (yesterday, tommorow or today?). Thank you France for my recent addiction to coffee - it really helped me get home.

I hope you all enjoyed this - I am trying hard to have Logan finish his end of things. If you are really interested let us know if you want to see pics. But be very sure before you ask!

Love you all - Kim

Time to go

Well, technically I am back but I wanted to finish off this blog but good and I actually had this blog done for the night before I left and then it got deleted. So just pretend and time warp yourself to a time right around Friday night.......

It is time to go and I am ready - not sad so I must have done it right. This week we saw the mountains of Alsace, a concentration camp, and the most beautiful city in France: Lyon. Every moment has been packed away for me to pull out and relive during the Canadian winter or the sparse quiet moments when the kids are occupied elsewhere.



Things I will Remember:

THE WEATHER: I was very careful to NOT check Canadian weather while I was away and we had 23 degree weather most of the time with maybe 2 overcast days and one rainy day of the entire 15. Not something you can control but I throw a high five to God for that one.


A WORLD IN BLOOM: Paris in springtime - can't beat that but everything had been blooming for many weeks - cherry blossoms and everything green. It made the parks very beautiful. Versailles is a little behind though - just tilled earth in place of the usual red flowers on the border.


130 KM/hr HIGHWAYS: ok brilliant - sign Canada up for this one. Oh wait....that is not such a big change for me. To go with this is the puegots, citroens and smart cars that are parked just everywhere - don't forget motorcycles parked on every sidewalk in Paris.


SEEING A PICTURE EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK: The French are very aware of how things look - this includes their buildings. Nothing is too much and yet nothing ends up being too much.


KNOWING WHERE I WAS BY LOOKING AT BUILDINGS: As you move through France the architecture changes to give you clues about where you are. In Alsace, in the north near the Swiss and German border the houses have steeply pitched rooves with painted curlicues on the shutters. In Lyon, more tropical and southern, flat rooves with an Italian Villa feel.


CHURCH BELLS: I know, I know - trite. Just try it - that is all I am saying. Try to resist the lure. There was a reason these things could be heard everywhere no matter how hard you tried to sleep in. After 7 days of unbelievable toil and filth and poverty and hopelessness you just wanted to lie in bed on Sundays and die. Then the bells would ring, you would pop up and say, "Right - time for church!"



THE SMELL: Ok, mainly the fridge, which smells like a cow lives there but it is just the 45 different cheeses that reside there. There is also the smell of flowers in the open air market, pastry and bread from the thousands of bakeries, the sweet smell of chocolate that leads you to the most amazing chocolate art in village windows. I should know - 10 picture of food at the least - small obsession obviously.



THE LANGUAGE: How proud I felt whenever I made myself understood to Philippe, Nathan's father who only speaks french.



THE PEOPLE: Not just this lovely family but the French who are not rude except for airport personnel and this was not limited to France. Canadians are loved here - as long as you TRY you will be rewarded for your efforts and you will distiguish yourself from the Americans. Then there was the woman in the boulangerie in Lyon who sang Celine Dion ballads - very special...



I am ready for home but pleased with what I have accomplished here - not just seeing part of a country - but jumping in, trying everything, being out of my comfort zone and opening the door to the possibility of more travel (please god).



Kim

Friday, April 24, 2009

But of course........

Here are some norms that might never take off in Canada - clearly with our young age as a nation we are in the wrong here so please take down the following notes for future changes or, you know, not......
1. Egg on pizza - in the middle where the slices meet a soft cooked fried looking egg should reside - you have to ask for your pizza without egg to get the canadian version - aparently this is the italian way. They are closer - they must know.
2. Lapin everything - pate, raw and stripped in butcher counters, pies, steaks, in canned stew like pork and beans in the section of the grocery store that Helene does not shop in (te KD section) - for those of you who don't know this is rabbit. Them's good eatin'.
3. Cream and more of it - on pasta so it looks like cereal, in mashed potatoes so you can slurp them from a bowl and eat with a spoon
4. 2 hour meals from pate to coffee - we just finished eating lunch at 430 and now at nine will eat crepes for dinner. The holy trinity is Pain (Bread our Father), Fromage (cheese - 365 different kinds- the Son) et Vin (Wine, the holy ghost)
5. Full use of the animal - I asked for a recipe and now will walk around Canada looking for the throat of the porc. Well, I asked.

Kim

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

A Bad Day

Today should not have been a bad day - as with most bad days it was only bad due to a very small event occuring at then end but currently in center stage of my memory banks so because of that I will tell you about the last three wonderful days - this serves a dual purpose - to make me feel better and to kill you with suspense - DO NOT SKIP AHEAD.

I spent the last days in Paris seeing Versailles - which was just wonderful - it is large and ornate and the gardens and fountains and the little hamlet are just a treasure. Eden would love to get left behind in the little village put there for Marie Antoinette like the family who are the caretakers - they have two little girls who live their lives in another time in the Hamlet of the Queen - I was so surprised that this little (10 buildings and 100 hectares) place that time forgot was not destroyed during the revolution but perhaps even their hearts were touched. Or perhaps the Rockerfeller who paid millions to restore this estate of the Queen at Versailles cleaned up this spot as well.

My to-do list told me that the Musee D'Orsay was next - lists are great things. This particular list should have reminded me to take my camera - I mean, WHY am I here if not to take close to 1000 photos so I can relive this experience as I choose which memories to post and which to delete after I get home. I am really looking forward to that.

In just 4 days we leave to come home - it is going so fast. Yesterday we went for a beautiful bikeride through the countryside to a place where we hiked to a cave that Nathan's little brother Louis tells me is painted by cavemen and indeed there are drawings of bison - decidedly 20th century but I am not about to burst bubbles. It is beautiful here and all the trees are in bloom and the land is lush and green except where fileds of canola shine yellow like a crayola crayon. The flower beds have been planted for a few weeks and are quite filled in like a midsummer garden. So that is excercise session number 2 for me Mona - I will need you to crack the whip when I am back!

Today Logan wanted to show me Dijon and all the places that he visited whie not in school on the weekdays. Dijon is picturesque with many old buldings and tudor wood fronts. I saw some single dwellings - never seen in Paris - if you live there it is in an apartment - complete with ivy and rioting gardens, stone fronts and alot of wrought iron. I walked the streets and picked homes for myself and my family. Mom and dad got the street level farmhouse with the large garden and tool shed equipped with satellite dish - a man's escape complete with mercedes. Mona has the 2nd floor terrace apartment with thriving vegetable beds and herb pots 2 blocks from the lake with a dog-walking park. If she moved to France she could teach the populace to clean up after their dogs - all baggie stations are full of supplies and the sidewalks full of shat - a french tragedy to be sure. Its not only cheese that perfumes the air to make that funky french aroma! There is the delightful townhouse next to the elementary school and across from the most beautiful park for Chris and Julie - with a large French kitchen already finished (good luck with your renos). And the ivy covered 2 story 1 block from downtown for me - xenoscaped of course.

It was a hot day today with temperatures in the 20s. With time moving so fast I feel like all my moents are stolen and I must hold onto them tightly and enjoy so the last hour in Dijon was spent in the beautiful park, watching babies toddle and be wheeled by, lovers holding hands and runners starting their workouts. It was so perfect that, while Logan dozed, I snapped the last shot of the day - something I now sincerely regret. To find out why, string together all the italicized words and you will know why I feel sad tonight.

I really miss home today and will see you soon.

Kim/Mom

Monday, April 20, 2009

Getting the most out of your time

Ok, admittedly I am a freakish form of human nature. If you doubt this take the recent trip to Paris. It is not enough that I have an automated audiotour of places like Versailles, Notre Dame and the Louvre but in order to be absolutely and definitively sure that I have squeezed the essence, juice and the pulp out of the experience I also have to sign up for engish language tours in all of these places as well - all pause while Logan rolls his eyes.............There! But I have never regretted the negligible cost or this decision in any way. Even when I was in danger of being hung by my headset wires and a security guard took an hour to untangle the hopeless mess.

Take Versailles as an example; This large palace was a labour of love for Louis Quatorze (IV) and was completely stripped during the French revolution with most things outright destroyed by the mobs or sold by the revolutionary government to feed the populace. Over time there have been (rarely) donations of lost furniture but mainly the french government has been trying to buy back pieces. They have gotten a bit lucky at times like the time the Rothschild family owed 23 million american dollars in taxes (inheritance tax - what is that about????) - instead of forking over the cash they gave, in lieu, a piece of furniture that was bought during the revolution that was and original piece of furniture in Versailles - I have a pic of course. ONE piece of furniture _ the French government enacted this bill to give historically releveant pieces in lieu o taxes to try and recoup the treasures. How do I know this fascinating tidbit? through the english tour - it was not on the audio tour because the english tour takes you into the roped off areas of Versailles. In the chapel we saw masses of people standing behind velvet ropes while we stood on a beautiful marble floor in the nave in front of the alter wrecking their pristine pics all the while smugly ignoring them.

How many of your have seen the famous painting of Napoleon crowning Josephone (don't worry I have a pic)? Well I know many things about that painting I would not know if I did not have an english guide.

Probably the best illustration of this point comes in my discussion of Musee d'Orsay - where you goto see the impressionists and work by Rodin. Logan, incidentally liked this visit the best. Most people I spoke to said I must go and see it and it is a marvel.........that you will have to see for yourself because we both forgot our cameras - Bad Omen 1. Then we arrived at the audiotour desk to find they were all signed out - Bad Omen 2. And we were 1 hour too late for the english language tour - that's 3. We really tried to do our own tour in an organized way from top to bottom seeing each alcove end using our map ( I tend to get 2 or 3 maps for scrapbooking later) but it was van not until we got to the giftshop that I realized this museum might have the sunflowers by Van Gogh, waterlillies by Monet and the famous Paris street scene by Renoir - I found them on fridge magnets - not exactly the way you want to see world reknowned art. We never did find them - maybe they were there and maye they weren't but the moral to this tale is this: do a tour, do all tours, get there early and bring your camera, stupid!


Love to all

PS - Eden and Teagan I cannot wait to see your new dos!!!!!!!!

Kim/Mom

Saturday, April 18, 2009

It was the Best of Times

I am nearing the end of my time in Paris now and faced with the first openly rainy day of my time in France - a natural time for reflection. This morning I took the metro to Sacre Coeur Basilica and the nuns were singing the mass. I took contraband pictures and assuaged my guilt at this by making a generous donation to the upkeep of this huge shrine (by emptying my coin purse into the wooden box that apparently had been emptied recently because each coin hit the bottom with a sound rivaling a canon blast in the middle of the reverent singing - nice). It is Saturday so I am not looking forward to the line at the Musee D'Orsay but all the people I have spoken to cannot be wrong and I am hoping that my natural reticence for visiting another museum will immediately vanish upon entering as it has everywhere else. Keeping in mind that this is not a complete list I will ennumerate the things I like the best about Paris;

Boulangeries: exhaustion aside, knowing that if you drag your sore body out of bed prior to 7 each morning you have a good chance of eating something delicious from the bakeries at every corner that is still warm from the oven is a huge inducement to bandage your blisters and carry on. Watch out for the street cleaners and garbage men, though - they clean and empty the refuse of Paris streets every day between 5 and 8.
The Metro: with very few hiccups (I still don't know why I sometimes use my ticket to exit to street level, I mean, I am leaving!) this system is truly brilliant and everyone in Vancouver should just shut it - if you end up with a system half as good you should count yourself lucky although I feel your pain that this tempting facade for millennia of grafitti will be above ground. Perhaps Vancouver will take a book from Paris and paing beautiful , murals and place Art Deco or Art Nouveau signs at entrances - somehow I doubt it.
The 360° History Lesson: Pick a place, twirl in a circle and see world history come to life. Paris has a law against modern buildings within Paris - not a glass skyscraper in sight. If it doesn't make you want to be Parisian - to navigate the streets with ease, slip between streams of traffic with just the slip of your scarf to spare then I have no help for you.
Churches: By far the most popular and repoduced image in this town is that of Jesus Christ he might be edged out by his mom - the holy Virgin - she is all that and more. The French know churches, they are free to enter and some of the most beautiful art is found there. Just try not to be annoyed with noisy tourists - LOWER YOUR VOICE FOR GOD'S SAKE - I mean, literally.

That's it for now I think. I mean, I am not done yet.

Love Kim

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Things That Make You Cry

This is not a top ten list. I have cried three times since being in Paris.........

Unless you count the time my battery died 10 minutes after running to a music store and back to replace the memory card that became full during my visit to the Louvre......

Or the time that I ran back to the apartment for the battery for Logan's camera to find that he had used the last of the toilet paper and had not bought more after finding the apartment without (the only thing it is without - it has a thermos and a trivet but no toilet paper) while he was spending the whole day wandering around and on the computer (I left him a nicely worded message[he was out]to get more after finding a scrap of used tissue in his pocket I could use).

Boy, those two were the same day - I ignored some pretty big omens that day but didn't notice until I was doing laundry (for obvious reasons) later that evening in my panic to see the Louvre.

Anyways - back to the crying. The only reason I mentioned it is because it occurred at places that surprised me:

The First time was my first glimpse of Notre Dame on Easter Monday surrounded by the faithful, the curious and the resigned locals. I was walking along, crossed the street and there it was, sitting as it had since the 13th century and I felt my nose and eyes fill and my throat close. Now, you need to know that in total I have spent no more than 12 hours in a church and most of that when I was very young and went with my elderly babysitter, Auntie Nessie. In order for you to understand me and religion I need to tell you about my record player.........stay with me. When I was 5 my parents bought me a RCA record player, it was blue and had a lid that you could close with a latch and a plastic handle for carrying it around. At the same time as they bought me my record player they bought about 20 records, that they added to yearly, all of which were not music but stories with read along books and some larger records with Disney stories or Golden Book Nursery Rhymes or Dr. Suess - things that cannot be found except rarely now. I know, I have looked - great gift mom and dad. Anyways, the point is that I loved stories and my parents probably got me this to let them off the bedtime reading hook so when the time came for me to be exposed to religion, how do you think that was done in the United Church that I attended with Auntie Nessie? Through stories read out of a really old storybook that someone told me was called the bible. I attended Sunday School happy as a clam to have this nice lady read me stories - just like an in person record player! Some time later someone, can't remember who, told me these stories were real but the damage had already been done. To me, stories from the bible were just that - stories. If someone told you that Little Red Riding Hood was a true story and implored you with fervor to believe them you would understand how I felt. That is how my little blue record player was instrumental (ha!pun!) in ensuring I had an educational enjoyment of religion, but, no faith. So you can see why seeing a church and feeling the shock of waterworks - from a distance surrounded by a crowd - completely stunned me. Nice Church.

The Second Time I cried was, you guessed it, at ANOTHER church. WHAT is the DEAL?????? A couple of Days ago while walking to the Catacombs, which turned out to be closed, we stopped at St. Sulpice Church - that's right, of DaVinci Code Fame. As we arrived the choir was singing and the organ was playing and I felt a sniff which I brutally quelled (I might have told myself to get a grip out loud...........yeah, that could have been the reason for the dirty looks........hmmmmm). But then when I got to the temple of the Holy Virgin and saw its beauty and embellishment there was no stopping a tear or two. Why am I having this reaction? I feel no draw to organized religion even now. I think it is a feeling of empathy - what it must have been like for people living in the middle ages to be surrounded by such a mean existance, sickness and early death and to come to these places and feel the wonder of its architecture rising from the squallor. Also the love that went into building these churches. Look at the way we throw up buildings today - speed of the essence and a request for crown moulding is a huge inconvenience. Every inch of these churches (more area than a football field including the bleachers) is embellished with works that, on their own, would take a week to complete. That is pride in workmanship.

The final time was not so surprising. For those of you who know me well, I have probably made you uncomfortable at least once by telling you that I feel very strongly that I have lived before and I have some connection to what happened during the holocaust. I began reading books on the subject in the third grade after reading a book from the school library on a child hiding from the Nazis. I read the Diary of Anne Frank in 4th grade and continued to have this rather macabre interest for several years, even writing a speech about it during 9 th grade complete with pictures that I showed the class from a Time Life Series on WWII that we had at home. Whether I was Nazi or Jew - I was there. Today we went to the Mèmorial de la Shoah. If you don't know what the Shoah is it is the Jewish word for catastrophe and is used to describe the holocaust of 1933-1945 in Europe and parts of Nazi occupied Africa. We had to enter through the most stringent security I have ever seen including the airports of Vancouver and Paris. After picking up my purse from the x-ray machine and going through the metal detector and two sets of bullet proof doors we came out into a marble courtyard with the names of the French deportees and their dates of birth under the year they were deported to the camps - mainly Aushwitz, Buchenwald and Drancy (in France). I have to say that Logan has become very interested in this part of history - when I told him we could come here he was excited to come (hmmmmmmmm......another connection?). In order to bring meaning to what I was seeing I asked him to find three names, names of children who would have been the same age as my children are now when they entered the camps (two boys and a girl) and we took a picture of their names. Then we entered the reception area and it started, I was handed an English speaking map and watched a slide show on the wall of pictures of beautiful families, couples and smiling children. After each picture it would fade only to come back with captions letting us know their fate. Suddenly I was soundlessly crying hard - not like at the churches - I was embarrassed and trying desperately to hide it from Logan but when I turned my head to the side there was a group of French school kids. I waited for it to pass but then Logan spoke to me and I couldn't speak and he noticed - I motioned for him to give me a minute and he escaped gratefully, embarrased greatly (Logan is proud NOT to be emotional). The suddenness and the length of time it took me to get under control shocked and embarrased me - I felt such sorrow, such fear. It was one of the most powerful moments of my life second only to the birth of my children. I feel sad that the world has learned nothing except to arm itself (this place) against hate and assert its rights with violence as we see between Isreal and Palestinians as effective weapons to ensure this particular nation never finds itself exterminated again while in other Nations, Darfurs are occuring. I feel glad when I see all the school groups going through because for every 10kids who looked bored one looked interested - this is how you fight hate.

To know more about the incredible global foundation of the Shoah check out a DVD copy of Shindler's List - there is an excellent DVD feature on the SHOAH foundation who have interviewed, verified, recorded, catalogued, archived and developed an interactive method of public access access to these memories before they die. Also check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USC_Shoah_Foundation_Institute_for_Visual_History_and_Education

I love you all and will go now and enjoy my last 2.5 days in Paris.

See you soon

Kim/Mom